London announces its schedule: McQueen comes home, Christopher Kane debuts at Mulberry

London is back in the game. The British Fashion Council has published the provisional schedule for spring/summer 2027 fashion week: the shows run from 17 to 21 September, and the calendar carries several names that had been missing from it for a long time.

The headline is that McQueen will again show a collection at home, in London, under Seán McGirr. The decision was reportedly pushed through by the new chief executive Gianfranco D’Attis, who took the post in June.

The second storyline is Christopher Kane. His own label wound down slowly and painfully and finally went in 2023. In March he took charge of Mulberry, and in September he will show his first collection there.

Marks & Spencer will mark a century in fashion with a joint menswear and womenswear show on a see-now-buy-now basis: pieces from the runway can be ordered immediately, without waiting for the season. A Barbour presentation opens the week; Burberry closes it.

The backbone of the schedule is held by the names London has rested on in recent years: Erdem, Simone Rocha, Ashley Williams, Harris Reed, Emilia Wickstead, Knwls, Ahluwalia, Roksanda, Richard Quinn, Natasha Zinko. Chopova Lowena returns with a show, after staging last season as a round of mini-golf. Among the most anticipated are Paolo Carzana and Aaron Esh, who runs AllSaints at the same time.

There is no shortage of first-timers either. The Swede Petra Fagerström will appear on a London runway for the first time, and Francesca Lake and Gui Rosa will hold their first presentations. All three are on the British Fashion Council’s NewGen programme, supported by Pull&Bear.

Laura Weir, who heads the council, puts it this way: the schedule reflects the confidence of British fashion today — established houses, a new generation and industry partners on one platform.