Paris hands out its slots: 68 shows, two debuts and some loud returns
The spring/summer 2027 calendar is shorter than last year’s and there are only two debuts — but Valentino, Margiela and Sacai are back. And McQueen is leaving for London.
The official Paris Fashion Week calendar has been published, and it already shows what the season will look like. From 28 September to 6 October there will be 68 shows and 33 presentations. For comparison, a year earlier there were 74 and 37. Fashion is contracting slightly — though not where the customer would notice.
Last season went down in history for an unprecedented wave of debuts: almost every major house put a new creative director on the runway. This time there are only two such premieres. On 30 September at 10.30 Drew Henry, the new artistic director of Courrèges, shows his first collection. On 1 October at 12.30 it is the turn of Kai Nesselrath, Carven’s new design director.
But those who were absent are returning. Valentino, which showed its autumn 2026 collection in Rome, is back in Paris. So is Maison Margiela, whose last collection took place in Shanghai. Plus Sacai, Ester Manas, Christopher Esber and Casablanca.
The heavy artillery is in place: Dior, Saint Laurent, Chanel, Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga, Loewe, Celine, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton. One detail stands apart — Alaïa is holding a presentation on 3 October with a collection made by the studio: the house has still had no creative director since Pieter Mulier left for Versace at the start of the year.
In the official schedule for the first time is Maxhosa Africa, the South African label of Laduma Ngxokolo. Beyoncé and Michelle Obama have worn his clothes. The presentations calendar has taken in, also for the first time, Alexandra Golovanoff, the Paris designer and journalist who launched a cashmere line in 2016, and Fidan Novruzova, a Central Saint Martins graduate with Azerbaijani roots and a Moldovan childhood, a semi-finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize.
Who will not be there: McQueen is returning home to London, now under Seán McGirr and the new chief executive Gianfranco D’Attis. Rabanne is skipping the season because Olivier Rousteing’s debut is set for March. Nor will there be Nina Ricci, whose creative director Harris Reed left in March 2026, or Off-White.