Milan goes without a single debut for the first time in years — and that is more interesting than it sounds
Not one premiere all week. Instead, second collections from Chiuri at Fendi, Demna at Gucci and Rogge at Marni — the moment it becomes clear who has actually landed it.
Europe is in the middle of summer and the schedule for Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2027 is already in hand. From 22 to 28 September there will be 54 physical shows and six digital ones, exactly as many as last season.
The difference lies elsewhere. For the first time in several consecutive seasons there is not a single debut in the calendar. Pieter Mulier will show his first collection for Versace only in 2027, and the house itself is absent from the schedule for the second season running, after Dario Vitale’s departure in December.
But that is precisely why the season is worth watching more closely. The second collection is the moment of truth: a debut can be carried by expectation, a second one cannot. On 23 September comes Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second outing at Fendi. On the 24th, Marni under Meryll Rogge. On the 25th, Demna with his second ready-to-wear for Gucci.
Prada opens the week on 22 September, the same day as the Indian streetwear brand Dhruv Kapoor and Diesel. The Saturday slots go to Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo. Sunday sees the return of Giorgio Armani, under the creative direction of Silvana Armani. Jil Sander, Missoni, Etro, Max Mara, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, The Attico and Act No.1 show across the week.
Moschino will present a collection made by the studio: the creative director Adrian Appiolaza left in June. Boss is not on the schedule at all. Two labels of Portuguese origin show in Milan for the first time — Marques’Almeida and Miguel Vieira, the latter closing the week.
And as an event in its own right, Vogue World Milano on opening day, after editions in New York, London, Paris and Los Angeles. The theme this time: artisans and the value of handwork in an age of technology.