Armani Privé: a second couture collection without Armani
Beaded blazers, leopard in muted tones and evening dresses with trains. Behind the scenes, a will requiring 15% of the group to be sold within the next eighteen months.
Giorgio Armani Privé showed shimmering dresses and loose suits in muted tones in Paris. It is the second couture show since Giorgio Armani’s death last September, with the role of creative director for womenswear passing to his niece Silvana Armani.
The show was held in the state rooms of Palazzo Armani, in the designer shopping district near Avenue Montaigne. Models glided past guests in textured satin bombers, velvet suits in burgundy and navy and long fluid coats with oversized lapels.
Beaded blazers were paired with sheer lace tops and fluid trousers. Leopard print ran through the collection, but in muted greys, blues and browns, on jackets and tops.
Evening dresses in deep green and blue were draped, densely beaded and finished with long trains; some had a kind of cardigan thrown over the shoulders.
The house is in transition. Its founder died at the age of 91, and his will instructs his heirs to sell the fashion house gradually or take it public. The sale of an initial 15% of the group is to take place within 12 to 18 months of his death. The will names LVMH, EssilorLuxottica and L’Oréal as preferred buyers.
The autumn/winter haute couture shows in Paris run until Thursday, with Dior, Chanel, Balenciaga and Schiaparelli among the participants.