Carven takes a designer from Saint Laurent and tries, again, to come back to life

Carven has appointed Kai Nesselrath design director. He succeeds Mark Thomas, who left the French house in April. Nesselrath will show his debut collection at Paris Fashion Week for spring/summer 2027 in October.

“A new generation’s view of the world matters particularly today,” said Shona Tao, chief executive of Carven, which belongs to China’s ICCF Group. “The essence of Carven is the fresh, bold spirit of its founder, and we believe Kai is uniquely placed to interpret and express it.”

Nesselrath was born and raised in Rome, graduated from Polimoda in Florence in 2015, worked at Chanel and then spent almost a decade at Saint Laurent, rising to head designer of womenswear.

He inherits a difficult legacy. In early 2018 the company filed for bankruptcy and was then bought by China’s Icicle Group, later renamed ICCF Group. The creative turnover is no less striking: Guillaume Henry ran the house from 2009 to 2014, followed by co-creative directors Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud (who left in 2016), then Serge Ruffieux, who departed in 2018 after three seasons. From February 2023 to December 2024 the creative director was Louise Trotter, who left for Bottega Veneta. In March 2025 her place was taken by Mark Thomas, with the title of design director.

“Kai’s appointment is an important step in the revival of Carven begun in 2023,” the house said in a statement. “The ambition is to reconnect with the founding vision of 1945: a distinctly French and inclusive approach to fashion, built on uncompromising creativity, product quality and a connection to contemporary life.”

“I am glad to be joining Carven, with lightness and optimism,” Nesselrath said. “I love clothes, spaces and conversations you can breathe in. It is an honour to keep the values of Madame Carven alive.”