Ralph Lauren is back in Milan — dressing two generations at once

Ralph Lauren opened the first day of men’s fashion week in Milan with a spring/summer 2027 collection that joined heritage tailoring to younger, sportier pieces. This is his version of timeless American luxury.

The collection opened with soft neutral and indigo two-piece suits from the premium Purple Label line, precise cutting next to more relaxed shapes. Then came a burst of colour from Polo Ralph Lauren: classic American codes reworked through patchwork, textured fabrics and decorative detail.

The timing is good for the brand. Ralph Lauren dressed the US team at this year’s Winter Olympics, is posting confident results and reports strong demand in China, at a point when the luxury sector as a whole is struggling out of a downturn.

“My approach has always been cinematic: I create visual stories and worlds to aspire to. Each of them is a tribute to the character of a man who lives to push creativity, competitiveness and personal style to the limit,” said founder Ralph Lauren, who was not at the show.

The show was held inside the brand’s palazzo in central Milan, in an intimate, almost domestic setting. Guests included the Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton, the actor Henry Golding (Crazy Rich Asians) and the Colombian singer Maluma. “That navy tuxedo really stood out… oh my god, it was phenomenal,” Golding enthused.

For the city this is the label’s second return to the calendar in a year, after a long absence. Milan’s men’s week itself runs until Tuesday with a thinner schedule than usual: Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Giorgio Armani. Gucci, Fendi and Emporio Armani have moved to combined men’s and women’s shows, and Zegna showed in Los Angeles this month.